What yarn count means
Yarn count tells you how thick or thin a yarn is. A higher count number means a finer yarn; a lower count number means a coarser yarn. That seems backwards at first, but it follows from how the count is measured.
The English count system (Ne)
Ne is the count system used for cotton yarn in India and in most global cotton trade. It is sometimes written simply as "s" (30s, 40s). The definition: how many 840-yard hanks of that yarn weigh one pound.
A 30s yarn means 30 hanks of 840 yards (25,200 yards total) weigh 1 pound. A 40s yarn means 40 hanks of 840 yards (33,600 yards) weigh the same pound. Since the 40 hanks weigh the same as the 30 hanks, each 40s hank is lighter, which means the yarn is finer.
Count ranges and typical applications
As a rough guide for karded cotton yarn:
- Below 20s: heavy fabrics, canvas, rope, thick jersey, blankets
- 20s to 40s: everyday knitwear, T-shirts, jerseys, towels, casual shirting
- Above 40s: finer knitwear, lighter fabrics, better shirting
For everyday T-shirts and jerseys, the 20s to 30s range is most common. Towels use coarser counts because the thick pile structure needs good fibre cover.
Count variation (CV%)
CV% measures how consistent the yarn count is along its length and across packages. A lower CV% means more consistent yarn, which gives you more consistent fabric weight and appearance. When enquiring with us, specifying your target count and acceptable CV% helps us confirm whether our current production fits.
Tex and denier
Tex (grams per 1,000 metres) and denier (grams per 9,000 metres) are used for other fibre types. For cotton yarn sourcing, Ne is the system to use. If you have a count in another system and need a conversion, send us a message.
What yarn count means
Yarn count tells you how thick or thin a yarn is. A higher count number means a finer yarn; a lower count number means a coarser yarn. That seems backwards at first, but it follows from how the count is measured.
The English count system (Ne)
Ne is the count system used for cotton yarn in India and in most global cotton trade. It is sometimes written simply as "s" (30s, 40s). The definition: how many 840-yard hanks of that yarn weigh one pound.
A 30s yarn means 30 hanks of 840 yards (25,200 yards total) weigh 1 pound. A 40s yarn means 40 hanks of 840 yards (33,600 yards) weigh the same pound. Since the 40 hanks weigh the same as the 30 hanks, each 40s hank is lighter, which means the yarn is finer.
Count ranges and typical applications
As a rough guide for karded cotton yarn:
Below 20s: heavy fabrics, canvas, rope, thick jersey, blankets20s to 40s: everyday knitwear, T-shirts, jerseys, towels, casual shirtingAbove 40s: finer knitwear, lighter fabrics, better shirtingFor everyday T-shirts and jerseys, the 20s to 30s range is most common. Towels use coarser counts because the thick pile structure needs good fibre cover.
Count variation (CV%)
CV% measures how consistent the yarn count is along its length and across packages. A lower CV% means more consistent yarn, which gives you more consistent fabric weight and appearance. When enquiring with us, specifying your target count and acceptable CV% helps us confirm whether our current production fits.
Tex and denier
Tex (grams per 1,000 metres) and denier (grams per 9,000 metres) are used for other fibre types. For cotton yarn sourcing, Ne is the system to use. If you have a count in another system and need a conversion, send us a message.